Friday, November 2, 2007

Besame Mucho

People kiss a lot here. You kiss friends when you meet. You kiss again when you say goodbye. And men kiss men, earnestly and without subtext. I like it a lot.

But some kisses still take me by surprise. I had to stop by my lawyer's office to pick up the final copy of the deed for our apartment. After a very successful phone call with the receptionist yesterday, I stopped by today to get the paper itself. She was very nice and we chatted about Buenos Aires, New York, and Spain while she typed up the receipt, handled several phone calls, and answered in-person queries from two other clients. When we were done, she got out of her chair and leaned over the counter to plant a very affectionate kiss on me before I left.

Then later today I returned to a small antique toy stall in a run-down pedestrian arcade that runs under the huge 12-lane avenue that cuts through town, 9 de Julio. I'm obsessed with the busses (colectivos) here, especially their typography and color schemes.



Scoping out antiques in San Telmo, I have seen a series of tin busses from the fifties, but only in one dealer's "brag box," a display cabinet chock full of things you want to buy but that aren't for sale. Anyway, I've looked around a lot, and finally found one at this little stall. It's in pretty poor shape, but I love it anyway.



So I went back to buy it today and the dealer is Esteban, a very charming older guy from here but of Greek origin. We gabbed for a while and I admitted that I couldn't stop thinking about the little colectivo and bought it. His assistant (wife?) popped it in a bag, he handed it to me, said "take care of it" and gave me a nice big kiss.

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